Before pulling out the piston and connecting rod assemblies, the cylinder head and oil pan should be detached. With the thumb and index finger, feel for any ridge at the upper reach of the ring zone on the cylinder liner; these should be trimmed using a reamer so that the piston doesn't break. After deburring, orientate the engine with the
Crankshaft horizontal and using feeler gauges, measure the end float of the connecting rods and it should not exceed the stipulated amount. Locate the connecting rods and caps for removal, and it would be wise to mark them for identification purposes, then get rid of their nuts or bolts, and then the connecting rod cap and bearing insert compassion. Slide the connecting rod and piston assembly out through the top of the engine, and then remove the same for all the other cylinders as well. Subsequently, one should not tamper with the caps and inserts unless they are going to reinstall them sometimes they are delicate and can be easily damaged. When replacing the piston rings, measure the end gap of rings and also verify the piston ring side clearance. Timing of the piston is done by the installation of the oil control ring after which followed by the middle and top rings with their identification marks facing the right way. Scrape the cylinder walls and debur the edges prior to putting in the pistons/connecting rods, making a point of having clean surfaces on the bearings. The condition of the oil showed that, it's time to again check the oil clearance employing Plastigage and change the bearing inserts. The Plastigage material can then be scraped off and the bearing faces lubricated before the nuts on the rod cap are tightened. This should be done for the remaining assemblies while observing cleanliness and the orientation of the piston marks. As a last step, rotate the crankshaft and perform the binding test and also check the side play of the connecting rod and give the required adjustments in this connection.