Here, to do an operating check, press the brake pedal several times with the engine off to make sure the pedal reserve distance does not change while you start the engine to do moderate pressure on the brake, something slight means okay. For a booster airtightness check, turn the engine on, then off after one or two minutes, then gradually apply the brake pedal; if, after several depressions the pedal depresses less, then the booster is airtight. Turn the ignition on, apply the brake, then stop the engine while applying the brake; if there is no change in the measure of pedal reserve travel after 30 seconds in this process, then the booster is airtight. When studying the power brake booster it should be noted that it should not be disassembled because of its complicated structure and the generally necessity to replace it with new or rebuilt ones. First it is necessary to unbolt the
Brake Master Cylinder, and if required completely disconnect all the
Brake Lines that intersect in front of it. Release the vacuum hose from the brake booster and then go on to remove the brake pedal return spring, and the clevis pin, which is held in place by a retaining clip. Feed the four bolts holding the brake booster to the fire wall and pull the brake booster out in a straight line. To retrofit, the procedure insists that the removal sequences be followed in reverse, except that booster mounting nuts should be tighten to the appropriate torque, and master cylinder and brake hoses should be fitted, height and free play of the brake pedal adjusted and the system bled accordingly.