Before removing the Brake Master Cylinder, it is advisable to cover all body parts to avoid the effects of brake fluid on paint or any other finished surface and wipe off any spillage with water. It can be started by taking out the air filter housing and the air intake duct and with a syringe pump, the fluid should be tried to be suctioned out from the reservoir. Remove the electrical connector for the brake fluid level warning switch, put rags at the fittings, and have caps or plastic for the ends for each line that will be disconnected. Open the
Brake Line connections to the Brake Master Cylinder by slightly loosening the brake line end fittings with a flare-nut wrench you choose to avoid rounded flats. Gently pull off the brake lines and cap the opposite ends to avoid any possibility of fouling of the lines. Before disconnecting, take out the nuts which connect the Brake Master Cylinder to the power booster and be careful not to over-turn and twist the brake lines and of course, avoid spilling the fluid. If this is not possible, then cut or un-bolt the brake lines running to the ABS actuator if they cannot be located out of the way. To install the new Brake Master Cylinder, the latter should be bench bled first: put the Brake Master Cylinder in the vise and connect the bleeder tubes to the outlet ports. Pour the recommended brake fluid into the reservoir and gradually depress the pistons into the Brake Master Cylinder to em prejudice the air into the reservoir doing this until no air bubbles are observed at all. At this point, detach the bleed tubes and plug the open ports, and then place the reservoir cover on followed by placing the Brake Master Cylinder over the studs on the power brake booster and tightening the nuts until only with your fingers. Insert the brake line fittings into the Brake Master Cylinder being careful not to damage the threads on the nipple, and tighten the mounting nuts and brake line fittings tightly. Add fluid to the Brake Master Cylinder reservoir and then evacuate the Brake Master Cylinder and the brake system with an assistant exerting steady pressure on the brake pedal and loose the fitting nut to let out air and fluid. Even if brake lines between the Brake Master Cylinder and the ABS actuator are removed, bleed the brake line at the ABS control unit. Last of all, the rest of the installation is done in the reverse sequence to the removal process, and it is essential to carry out brake system operations with all caution before regular use. If there are doubts over the brake system efficiency or if the brake pedal has a spongy feel after bleeding, it is advisable to consult a mechanic due to the hydraulic control unit for the models that come with ABS.