In order to do an operating check, engage the service brake apply the brake pedal a few times with the engine switch off but the gap between the brake pedal pressure should remain the same. Next, manipulate the pedal and start the engine; if the pedal slightly descends, operation is typical. Required for an air-tightness check, start the engine and run it for a minute or two before shutting it off, following with application of the brake pedal several times; if the application pressure decreases each time and the brake pedal depresses less, the booster is airtight. Subsequently, with the engine on, engage the brake pedal and shut off the engine with the brake pedal pressed; when this is done, check that the needle on the pedal reserve travel does not move after 30 seconds, then this will be an indication that the booster is airtight. When disconnecting power brake booster units it is important not to dismantle since the units are positively complicated and require intricate tools. First of all, start with the dismantle of the
Brake Master Cylinder and, depending on the specific car model, it may be easy to completely discard the crossover
Brake Lines that intersect in front of the master cylinder. Caution and detaching the vacuum hose from brake booster, then pardon the brake pedal return spring at the top of brake pedal and removing the brake booster clevis pin retaining clip and the pin. You then undo the four nuts and bolts that are securing the brake booster on the firewall, and pull the booster straight backward till the studs are out of holes. For installation reverse the following removal procedures, and then tighten the booster mounting nuts to the prescribed torque. The next components to fit are the master cylinder and the brake hoses; when fitting the master cylinder, set the brake pedal height and freeplay and bleed the brake system.