To do this, to actually remove the oil pan, one followed the steps of; connecting the negative terminal of the battery, setting the parking break, and placing blocks on the rear wheels. Lift the front end of the car and properly place the jackstands under it. If applicable, disconnect the engine splash shield, next, dispose of the engine oil and take out the oil filter as well as the dipstick. Then, the NC compressor lower mounting bolts should be removed, then the compressor mounting bracket bolts and the bracket as well. Slopply remove the exhaust pipe, located in front of the catalytic converter if you are working on a rear-wheel drive car, then remove the oil pan bolts, which may vary in length and disconnect it. If the pan were to stick, then remove it carefully using and small screwdriver or putty knife but be careful not to harm the mating surface so as to avoid oil leakage. The subject can be removed from the upper oil pan without having to remove the lower oil pan and vice versa. To install, scrape out the prior sealant off the block and oil pan and scour the mating surfaces using a scraper before washing the surfaces down with lacquer thinner or acetone. Make sure the threaded bolt holes in the block planning are clear and take time to inspect the oil pan flange for twisting; will it be necessary to smoothen some of the edges. Squiggle a 3/16-inch wide line of RTV sealant directly on the mating surface of the oil pan Thread the pan in within 15 minutes of applying the RTV sealant and position it on the ladder assembly, tightening the oil pan-to-ladder assembly bolt lightly. It is recommended to tighten these bolts from the center through a three- or four-step sequence to the indicated torque level The lower oil pan should now be fitted into place, while tightening the bolts in a sequence and to the torque rating strongly recommended. Last but not least, turn on the engine and look at the oil pressure and signs if there is any.